Aluminum Furniture Patio Replacement Slings For The Following Brands - And Others !

Our Email Contact:  CustomerService@SFPatioFurniture.com

General Information

  • Slings are custom-made per order and based upon the customers' dimensions taken
  • Model identification is not used for replacement slings in AL furniture - dimensions are used
  • Ship times vary with seasonal production demands
  • We include new spline or welt cord with each new sling (7/32 or  0.21875)"
  • Slings are double hemmed on each side with top and bottom being turned so no raw edge is visible on top

Something We Do Not Manufacture (?)

We do not manufacture new slings if you have chair rail splines that are HORIZONTAL on the chair (as opposed to vertical).  Honestly, this is extremely rare but normally, no manufacture will make this type and is suggested to recycle the frames and start with new furniture.

Are Some Slings to too difficult to install (?)

Most chairs have a spreader bar in the top or bottom of the back of the chair.  If you do and this bar is WELDED to the frame - we suggest you have the installation professionally done or opt for new furniture. 

Sling Measurement Tips

Every chair or chaise or ottoman must be measured.  Always measure in the areas shown and measure Center of Rail to Center of Rail on the sides.  Round UP to the nearest 1/16".  Never measure an old sling as no accuracy may be determined from this.  We will add necessary material for seam hem allowances so you never need to add any for seam.

Is There Any Warranty on Slings ?

Yes, industry standard for 50 years now has been ONE YEAR.  Warranties do not cover fading, damage from animals, or organic matter.

Can I Match My Existing Material  or Use My Own Material (COM) ?

Unless you see it in our material inventory listing - then we will not be able to match.  If you have found a material that you like, we can do COM (Customers Own Material) and make your slings in that option.  However, keep in mind that you need to have concern about the overall thickness of the material and IF it will fit into your sling tracks after hemming.  We will need to have a sample of it sent to us prior to production for approval and we will also need to tell you how many linear yards of the material that you will need.  While we do not have hundreds of materials to choose from, we feel that our assortment allows for a number of different frame finishes.  Also, consider that we are able to keep overall sling costs to a minimum by not having hundreds of different material inventories.

What About these Plastic Inserts in my Chair Rails ?

We send you new spline - both sides - for each sling

Expanded Sling Rails ?

Inspect your sling rails for H2O expansion.  When H2O sits in a rail and air temp reaches 34 degrees F, water starts to expand all the way to down to 32 degrees F.  This expansion can cause sling rails to buck or expand.  This can be closed back to original space with a vice but must be closed or sling replacement will be an effort in futility.  This is rare but worth the mentioning.

What is the Cost ?

Sling Chair Pricing Begins at $ 30.  Most One-Piece & Two-Piece chair slings $ 30 to $ 55, material and size dependent.  One-Piece & Two-Piece chaise slings run $ 60 to $ 89.

Refund / Return Policy ?

Understand that these replacement slings are custom made for YOUR furniture based upon YOUR provided dimensions.  They are not made to fit anyone else's furniture.  We want to make sure that one understands the process of how to take dimensions correctly - we will do our job in manufacturing to fit YOUR provided dimensions.  Therefore, slings are not returnable and non-refundable if made to your specifications. Remember, measure THREE times, cut ONCE.  All dimensions are to be made to be rounded UP to the nearest 1/16" or the nearest 1/8".  DO NOT make adjustments for seams or hem - we will add necessary allowances for seams / hems.  DO NOT take measurements from the very top of chair RAILS as they tend to naturally flair out over time.  At the end of the day, our goal is HAPPY.  Talk to us with issue.

So how do I place my order ?

Please Click - HERE - and follow the steps

These dimensions, these measurements, MUST be taken with the sling installed and sling side rails tightened as in original use condition (i.e. Do not take anything loose or off to get your measurements)

Please Note in the WIDTH Measurement Examples Below that each sling SIDE RAIL has a hollow slot that runs the entire length of the rail.  You want to take the dimension AT THE CENTER  of the sling rail SLOT.  The tape should originate exactly in the center of the rail SLOT- NOT AT EITHER EDGE.  You will be measuring from center of rail slot to center of rail slot.  

In the third image below is a flexible sewer's tape (white tape image) and this is the measuring device that you will want to use for the sling LENGTH so that you may lay flat on the sling to get the most accurate length dim by following the contours of the sling.  If you do not have, dont waste resources, use a string or anything that you can lay flush on the material from top to bottom.

 

Aluminum Sling Installation Guide

OK, one of these  will make your life much easier - or something similar that can do the job.  This next sentence is a GOT-TO !  You MUST have a PUMP-Style clamp or your efforts will be futile.  This two-way clamp was picked up at Home Depot in Hardware area for ~ $ 29 and has many useful applications.    Now, lets be clear, we are not suggesting you run out and drop another $ 30 just to get the job done but what we are saying is that a manual "hand-style" clamp will NOT get the job done.  A "screw-type" clamp will likely NOT get the job done.  You need a PUMP style clamp.  It has a total max width of about 34" and can generate 600# of clamp pressure.  These are sometimes commonly referred to as 'furniture spreaders'.  This one has clamps that are reversible (seen on right side of this image) and can exert OUTWARD pressure and THAT IS WHAT YOU NEED.   If you can borrow one, better yet.  

With a small flat-head screw driver, evenly and carefully pry ALL FOUR of the end caps up from the side rail.  Be careful as these caps are likely brittle from being exposed to UV light.  Do this slowly entire the periemter of the end cap being careful not to crack or break the cap.  Do not try this using a quick 'crow-bar' style motion or it likely will break.  OK, so if they break, what then ?  At the end of the day, they are ONLY aesthetic anyway and serve no real function.  If we have our druthers, sure we want them, so just be careful, but they are not needed for function.  There are generic companies online that sell various dimension of end cap.  If you need, take note of the shape and dims, then copy paste this link into your address bar http://www.patioproducts.com/parts.asp  to see if anything is close.  You may find that you need to modify a bit- no biggie.

Not a necessity, but spraying silicon / lubricant down into the top of each sling rail may assist in removal. WD40 shown - silicon may be actually preferred.  Keep in mind that after many years of use and outdoor settings that small sediment is likely in the sling trac.  Again, no big deal.

Using a blade / knife, carefully cut down the center of the sling from top to bottom as shown.  Work EACH side of material in sling rail back and forth in a 45 degree range.  This is to loosen up 10 to 15 years of sediment that will be in the rail and to prepare for sling removal in next step.

Using a heavy duty grip device, grab a bit of the material and try to get an inch or more of the current sling spline pulled down and out.  Now, lock onto the existing spline cording, and pull the sling out from the bottom.  You sort of got to "un-freeze" it.  Keep in mind that the sling has been sitting (in place) for some 10, 15 or more years.  You would be stiff too if you were sitting tight that long.  Once you "break" it free, it should fly on out of the rail.

You will notice a few sling rail tension screws along one or both sides.  FACING the chair, loosen up the bolt screws on the left rail about 75% the way off but leave the left rail attched and therefore the bolt screws on the left rail will be attached to base frame about 25%.    Completely remove the RIGHT side rail.   You may find that you need to remove BOTH rails but do not do so until you have proven that need.  

You will notice a few sling rail tension screws along one or both sides.  FACING the chair, loosen up the bolt screws on the left rail about 75% the way off but leave the left rail attched and therefore the bolt screws on the left rail will be attached to base frame about 25%.    Completely remove the RIGHT side rail.   You may find that you need to remove BOTH rails but do not do so until you have proven that need.  

Totally remove one or possible both sling rails.  Try first to remove only the right side, leaving the left side 25% attached.

Thread / Fish the NEW spline cording into the hemmed pocket on the NEW SLING - leaving equal amounts on top and bottom exposed.  Next, fish the new sling into the  left (loosely attached rail) and then the completely removed right rail.  Make sure the sling is even on both sides top to bottom and then go to next step below to attach the rails to the base frame.  MENTAL NOTE - Please make sure the hem is on the BACK here folks !

Thread / Fish the NEW spline cording into the hemmed pocket on the NEW SLING - leaving equal amounts on top and bottom exposed.  Next, fish the new sling into the  left (loosely attached rail) and then the completely removed right rail.  Make sure the sling is even on both sides top to bottom and then go to next step below to attach the rails to the base frame.  MENTAL NOTE - Please make sure the hem is on the BACK here folks !

Using the clamp spreader bar, spread the sling rails apart until you can start a thread screw on the loose rail.  Continue using the spreader clamp at ALL tension screws locations so that you may start the screws.  Once screws are making thread contact, let the tension screws do all of the work.  Leave your clamp spreader attached and exerting pressure and you may even want to pump the clamp a few times so that the screw tightening is easier.  Trust us, once you do the first one - you will be like - "Oh, I got this ! "  It is not something you want to do every weekend, no doubt.  But once every 10 to 15 years..... its all good.  Now you will be likely thinking that "these guys that made these things have goofed up and they are too narrow.  Not likely, as the material stretches to a perfect tautness.  Keep in mind that ONLY the material (as light as it is) is the only thing that is supporting the loaded-live weight and therefore it must be under a lot of E/W stretching pressure to get the job done.  Don't worry.... you are good !

 

Be advised, the above model Samsonite chair has a "spreader-bar" underneath the seating.  It is likely that you may not be able to place the spreader bar back in its original location when replacing new slings.  If you are able to do so, you may need to cut length of inserts to place,  The spreader bar at top on back is a bit more important than the one under bottom front.  Ideally, try to get both back in.

Tighten the Tension Screws on the both sides - BACK and FORTH, as you would lug nuts so that  you get an even stretching across the sling.  Trim the excess spline cording at top and bottom to be flush with the sling.  When trimming the excess spline - use a pair of snips and not a flat blade of any type.  You can snip the excess off easily where a blade may cut you or the sling.  Re-Install the caps at all four corners.  If you find a bit of material is sticking out and making it tough to place end cap back in place - just get your little extension flame clicker and melt the material back a bit and stuff into rail.  Now, put that end cap back on. Then you can kick back, grab the lemonade, and relax in your renovated furniture and we can talk again in Ten to Fifteen Years  !

Tighten the Tension Screws on the both sides - BACK and FORTH, as you would lug nuts so that  you get an even stretching across the sling.  Trim the excess spline cording at top and bottom to be flush with the sling.  When trimming the excess spline - use a pair of snips and not a flat blade of any type.  You can snip the excess off easily where a blade may cut you or the sling.  Re-Install the caps at all four corners.  If you find a bit of material is sticking out and making it tough to place end cap back in place - just get your little extension flame clicker and melt the material back a bit and stuff into rail.  Now, put that end cap back on.

Then you can kick back, grab the lemonade, and relax in your renovated furniture and we can talk again in Ten to Fifteen Years  !

Still not convinced that you can Git-Er-Done ?  Then watch countless videos on the subject HERE

Chair Sling Pricing Starts at $ 30 per sling !

OK, now you are ready, take those dims, choose a material HERE, and lets get it done.  Side Note:  we do have some Overstock slings, ready-to-ship, in various materials in various and listed dims.  These are an overage of cutting, an oops by a customer, you name it but we want to move them.  This is to your advantage.  Even if the length dims are not perfect (the width needs to be) this is all about a price-point incentive with good looking sling seating.  You may view the overstock AL slings HERE.

American Brand Company Using American Brand Equipment and Products